New Zealand 2012

New Zealand

An Introduction to Our Trip…March 2012

On the first page of this Blog is the mesmerising photograph from our front cover of a book produced in Blurb this photograph encapsulates one of the many spectacular views we came across as we journeyed throughout New Zealand.

Our trip began on the tranquil roads of the South Island to the busy yet still quiet, in comparison with England, highways around the North Island.

As we travelled for three relaxing weeks in a comfortable Camper Van we felt like we had a snail’s home on our backs with the freedom to stop whenever we wanted and stare at sites like this. 

Art took this particular photo and he has chosen it as his favourite.  It summarises our frame of mind as we travelled; serene, enchanted and focused on New Zealand’s natural landscape as we looked down Milford Sound. This Sound (similar as the fiords in Norway) will eventually take you out to the Tasman Sea that leads into the Pacific Ocean on one side and the Indian on the other. When you automatically focus on the bright clear colours, which are the result of the unpolluted atmosphere of New Zealand.

We were lucky with this photograph as it captures the sun beaming down on us; a rare treat in this area, which usually has a higher rainfall than London. This picture shows New Zealand South Island as a tropical, yet just a few miles down the road we came across ice in the form of glaciers; one day bathed in sunshine and the other drenched in a torrential storm with chunks of ice cascading down a turbulent churned up river.

Travelling through the islands we experienced the English Lakeland, at the same time viewing New Zealand’s tropical plants and captivating tiny fan tailed birds sweeping around us. At one stop we stepped outside our camper van and heard the haunting sounds of a rare tropical bird called Kokako. A few days later we watched Sperm Wales; tales dropping down into the depths of the sea through crashing waves. Albatross, the largest bird in the world swooping overhead. At the same time around us we viewed similar to Cornwall’s coastline. On both Islands we drove past rolling Scottish hills with the possibilities of the mysterious Hobbits being filmed living in its nooks and crannies. Only days later we smelt New Zealand's sulphur, bubbling up through thin crested volcanic soil.

We were confused and yet enchanted by these Islands, which made this trip one of the most, talked about for its differences yet understood by its similarity to England's green and pleasant lands.

Off Whale Watching… 

We arrived in Kaikoura by the west costal road the day before our anticipated trip to see a New Zealand Whale. We had booked our boat journey out to sea in England many months before.  When parking our Campervan at the ‘Top Ten Holiday Park’ we noticed the ‘Kaikoura Whale Watching’ Offices were only next-door. But the weather was bleak with darkening storm clouds all around. Our fingers were crossed for tomorrow’s trip.

That evening we walked passed their offices and had a meal in the town of fish and chips, of course. It was then we met Janet and Maurice Copes. The couple became our constant companions over the next week around the South Island and on the ferry crossing to the North Island, but that is another story. Janet wanted to join us as we were booked on the same trip. Her husband had other plans.

We were up very early ready to go but the weather was worse, the sea was choppy and it was also pouring with rain. In fact the seas were so rough, that to our dismay our trip was cancelled. Janet decided not to try to rebook and left with her husband for the day.  Art and I, on the other hand sat tight and wait to see if the crew would change their mind. It took a while and lots of persuasion to rebook us for an early afternoon trip at 12.45pm. In the mean time we saw people coming off a coach from a previous trip who looked pale and sickly. We just glanced at each other I pulled a face and we took seasickness tablets.

In the mean time we bought some whale watching tee shirts and saw a movie. We also spent the morning constantly being drawn to the windows looking at the sky and out to sea. Would we go or not? It was a nail biting time, especially as we had travelled here to try to see our first ever Whale. But to our immense relief, just when we were about to give up, the crew announced that they were going to set sail. There was a warning to take our seasickness tablets, so we swallowed our second lot, although I was feeling a little drowsy. It was a good job we did.

The coach was waiting for us and as we boarded, our stomachs churned, either in anticipation of seasickness or in excitement for the approaching trip. We were still expecting it to be cancelled right up until the moment we walked up the plank into the boat. Our vessel was a modern Catamaran owned and crewed by Maori New Zealand's native people. The Maori used to make their living by hunting whales but are now into tourism and conservation. In fact the whole area is steeped in Maori history and legends.

We were finally on board. Oh yes the sea did get choppier and choppier as we flew across the waves some of the passengers were advised to go to the back of the boat as it’s the calmest place for those with sea sickness.  Art and I were out the front enjoying the waves and searching for signs of Whales. When the boat suddenly the boat took off again without warning. We held on for our lives and whoosh, a wave came up to our knees. Our feet and legs were soaked. It was very exciting.

We waited and waited. People got sicker and sicker. One of the crew took care of passengers with his mop, bucket and paper bags. The captain used a sonar gauge to listen and measure the direction and sound of the whale coming up from beneath the ocean. We had now travelled six miles out to the sea.

We stopped again and In front of us was another whale watching boat bobbing on the waves and a noisy helicopter hovering overhead. We didn’t blink until we finally saw our first Giant Sperm Whale it was laying on the surface of the crashing waves with water squirting out from its blowhole. To me the it looked the size of a submarine. In fact we were told they could grow up to twenty metres in length. My eyes were pinned to the floating monster, which stayed above the water to gain air for over fifteen minuets. I held my breath as it curved its back and dived down with its massive tail in the air, everyone around me was clicking photographs after photograph.

A while later we were honoured to see yet another Sperm Whale. We were so close this time we could see its blubber with pattern of straight lines that looked as if they’d been drawn on its back. As we tried to take in this amazing sight, we were told that this time of year we had been lucky to see one whale and two was simply unheard of but then...and as we were heading back we came across our third whale. Art and I had huge smiles on our faces. Finally, when we thought we’d seen all we were going to see, we discovered yet another incredible view. Swooping over the magnificent mammal, was the largest bird in the world; a Wandering Albatross. Art was clicking his camera so fast, afraid to miss anything while I just stared with an open mouth.

On our way back the sea was now so choppy that at times we couldn’t see any other boats or land as they disappeared into the swell behind the white horses. A smile was still on our faces; we realised we had seen something prehistoric in our time.

When we were back on dry land we found out the rest of the trips had been cancelled due to the terrible weather. The storm had now taken hold as we ran to our camper van.

That evening sitting in our warm and dry van while storms gathered around us, we looked at Art filming of the great Sperm Whale tail diving down to the depths below the ocean. We both had broad smiles and a look passed between us that said 'yes'.